Crack climbing footwork reddit. No rand smears required.
Crack climbing footwork reddit 225 votes, 223 comments. Unfortunately the only cracks at my gym are slightly inclined, and about halfway between hand and fist cracks which makes me think they are intended for people with Are your walls/holds particularly rough? Or are you crack climbing in them? They're leather, so they should be quite durable as long as you don't have poor footwork. Shoes won't screw up your footwork unless you can't stand being in them because of pain. See full list on theadventurejunkies. You don't have to rely solely on the crack. For smaller cracks, my general advice is to go pinky toe into the crack first, wide cracks- learn the heel-toeing. Handsized cracks usually fit feet well. I've tried a couple routes at my local climbing gym, 5. From the looks of the first pic, you could of snagged something or something sharp got it. Remember your footwork a finger crack with good facial features can be ~5. Climbing in the gym can wear out your shoes faster than climbing outdoors so a lot of people ware a cheaper shoe for inside the gym. Climbers with great footwork - and I don't mean good - always stand out to me. Straight cracks: Combine hand and foot jams in an alternating sequence (e. right foot, right hand, left foot, left hand). From what I’ve seen, not trying to keep both feet in the crack can be really helpful. i own a pair of la sportiva mythos that i LOVE ! for crack climbing (and any top rope 5. I love my Miuras like they are my own child. 9-10 level in the valley is footwork. 13 or harder. . In terms of ease of learning jams, fist jams were easiest for me at first, followed by hand jams. Don't forget to look outside the crack for features to put your feet on. For me, I end up climbing hands and fingers the most (mainly because I seek it out), so I would focus on hands and fingers. It doesn't look like abrasion from rubbing over a period of time. com Sep 4, 2024 · Squats make you stronger but that's the wrong posistion when you climb. Wider cracks might feel more like drop knees and toe hooks to get the tension right. I have a pair of Miuras and Miuras VS. The Wide Boyz have a good YouTube series on crack climbing technique that helped me learn a lot! 1. In the end this is just two approaches, using different shoes to support different styles of footwork. V9 boulder, 12- crack (fingers/hands), 11- slab (granite friction), 10+ OW, 12+ sport I spent the last season really dialing in my trad climbing and am very happy with how I've progressed but want to change up my focus this year. Insert the toe of your climbing Apr 13, 2022 · Look for bumps, edges, or dishes on the face outside the crack. 10a/b with almost no success. Oct 16, 2012 · Good in-the-crack footwork separates the true crack climbers from the thrashers. 1. It’s like sport climbing, so remember your fancy footwork: step-throughs, back-stepping, etc. ” Hard: Toe Jams A huge difference for a lot of people climbing at a 5. Like all climbing, crack climbing necessitates moving from a good balanced position over your feet, thru some (often awkward) transitional movement, on to the next balanced position over your feet. Like your jams and finger locks might be pristine but if you’re not getting mileage in with learning to smear steep slabs, then all the crack training in the world isn’t going to help you even on vertical gym cracks. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Just dance up the nice little crystals. To jam a foot, begin in the “crack-climbing Lotus position” by raising your foot to shin level and dropping your knee to the outside; the sole of your shoe should be parallel to the crack. Scout for them at all times, as they are the easiest to use. And yes we are scared of falling. But put on some tight Miuras and there are footholds everywhere. I have largely avoided OW because I haven't found any partners interested, and in my (very) limited experience the footwork of OW is harder than the jamming. Move efficiently through the moves by swinging your arms in a windmill fashion into This dude is climbing a crack, which requires its own particular set of techniques where you jam your hands, fingers and toes into the crack and then squeeze or twist them to generate outwards force on the rock to hold you in place. Hence no footholds. 8) however, for higher rated walls, i use the scarpa dragos, theyre the most comfortable aggressive shoe ive tried and ive been using this same combo of shoes for 9 years now. it really depends what type of climbing you do. Posted by u/YungTayto - 10 votes and 22 comments Aug 5, 2022 · narrow crack footwork Small cracks (perfect fingers or smaller) are too thin for foot or toe jams, so you’ll have to cobble together a combination of face climbing and friction-jamming moves. Finger-crack master Jean-Pierre Ouellet says, “The tiniest bumps will be good enough to get to the next jam. 4 thru a 5. Smearing and edging on the faces adjacent to the crack is the typical workaround, but when the joint offers pods and flares, you should exploit them for Mar 24, 2017 · They are using floppy crack shoes, so they can't stand on the tiny features. 7 or 5. Either can work. Hi All, I've been climbing for about 2 months, and I really want to get into crack climbing. Climbing up a Crack. No rand smears required. 10 (like the top of this climb) or less, but an overhung finger crack with poor feet can be 5. Don't step too high, don't reach too high, let your body sense guide you. The home of Climbing on reddit. For really thin cracks, you may have to just barely get a rand smear in the crack, or even just edge on the opposite side of the crack. g. Being in good overall shape will definitely help, but learning the proper technique helps a lot too. ltmijswllstzqsjgoakqppueajrzwgplttliquciskmsimet